April 4: Warm up skiing directly from the town of Bormio.
Our crew of four bought lift tickets and skied directly from town, a short walk away from our hotel La Genzianella. Variable spring skiing conditions prevailed, but it was a spectacular way to get the legs warmed up and see some amazing alpine views. ​

April 5: Day ski touring from our hotel.
To get an extra day of ski touring in (and taking advantage of the perfect weather) Stefan and Nata joined me in a beautiful tour up the 'valley of 100 turns' to the semi technical summit of 'San Giacomo'.  a classic European summit with wooden cross gave way to perfect recycled powder through the curving drainages below.  We opted for a more adventurous exit on the way out, which proved to be fun, exciting, and also harboring good snow.  ​

April 6: Walk into Refugio Pizzini.
2.7 miles of walking over 1700' made for a casual morning approach up to our first hut of the trip. After landing our gear in our bunk room, and some espresso served with lunch, we ski toured out of the hut for some views and a few good turns.  ​

April 7: Ski the grand Zebru.
long before we got to Italy, Nata had told me that she really wanted to ski the 'Grand Zebru' a full ski mountaineering and steep skiing objective accessed from the Pizzini hut.  Weather and conditions allowed us a beautiful day to make the summit attempt. After breakfast we surried up a steep couloir to the furthermore steep faces above, and eventually switched to boot crampons for the final push to the summit. Fun and engaging turns off the summit gradually gave way to progressively easier skiing below.  we took the afternoon to go for a ski tour up towards 'Kings Glacier.' we didn't necessarily find good corn snow, but the views were stunning. ​

April 8: Traverse over to Marteller Hütte.
From Pizzini hut, our route took us up to the summit of 'Suldenspitze' and then down 5000' of north facing terrain to the valley bottom towards the town of Sulden.  At this point in the season, the valley had melted out to the point that it didn't make sense to drain our ski run all the way to town at the valley bottom. Instead, we caught a ride at the mid station of a tram way that brought us up valley to a network of ski lifts towards the 'Passo Del Madriccio'. In classic Europian style, we stopped for lunch at a wonderful mid mountain ski café, and enjoyed a robust lunch in the shadow of our previous days' objective: the Grand Zebrú. The descent from 'Passo Del Madriccio' was wandering and enjoyable.  A short 1500' climb at the end of the day got us to Marteller Hütte in time to enjoy radlers on the deck while sitting in the afternoon sun. ​

April 9: Traverse over to Rifugio Branca.
Since the Marteller Hütte doesn't have a lot of skiing access for day trips, we opted not to spend a whole day skiing from the hut. We decided instead to ski up and over on a high traverse line to Rifugio Branca. The tour was about 10 miles over 5500' of climbing and skiing.  Although the snow conditions were variable, the weather made for a very enjoyable experience. ​

April 10: Ski from Rifugio Branca.
After a previous big day of touring, some of our crew opted to take a rest day while the rest of our crew climbed up to ski a line that we were able to scout earlier in the trip.  After about 3500' of climbing, we transitioned at the top of the couloir and used a rope to get through a steep entrance to the couloir below.  It was here that we made one of the most memorable descents of the trip. perfect recycled powder throughout, and the opportunity to look at our tracks at lunch while enjoying radlers and pie from Rifugio Forni's deck. ​

April 11:  Ski Forni Glacier.
On the last day of our trip, we ventured out onto the Forni glacier and skied a low-angle high-walled couloir and egressed directly back to the car. Visibility was marginal and we had so much success throughout the trip that we didn't feel like we needed an especially last day.

All in all, the Ortler Traverse lived up to it's reputation as the "skiers traverse." In contrast to the Haute Route, the Ortler allows guests to enjoy single day objectives with smaller packs, and limits hut to hut travel days. For people looking for a Europian hut experience that focuses more on skiing than simply traveling on skis, talk to me about the Ortler Traverse and we can make some magic happen ;)  see the 'International' tab above, and book your adventure today. ​

     Between ski patrolling, guiding, and living the rest of my life, it is hard for me to find time to squeak out personal turns these days.  luckily I was able to find some time to make the four hour drive south a couple weeks ago, and hit the high tide cycle in the Tetons.  Although conditions remained unstable, myself and a few other trusted partners were able to make it out in the Backcountry for some DEEP powder skiing.  One day in GTNP, and one on the pass...Above is what we found...
     Although we were able to find safe skiing, myself and company also remotely triggered a steep rollover on Mt. Albright, reminding us to keep ourselves in check.  Recent accidents and events in the backcountry have affected my headspace and reminded me that snow slides, regardless or how much we study conditions or think we know what is happening in the snowpack.  Stay safe my friends, and know that the rewards are not always as easy as they can sometimes seem!
​-Ty

Alfani ambassador Doug Burns hop turns down the Cham Couloir. Beartooths 2016.

          I would have never guessed it, but this year early April might have been too late for the East rosebud roadside attraction: Chamonix Couloir. Dry trail, talus, deadfall, and 5.4 rock climbing were all necessary components of actually accessing the snow in the Chamonix.  Low snow is a general expectation for this popular couloir skiing destination, but if I knew how much of an effort it was really going to be, we probably would have committed to traveling elsewhere. 
           Like many great adventures, inspiration for the Cham struck late the night before our anticipated alpine start.  My very close friend Doug Burns was recently accepted to medical school, so we had to have one last ski trip together before Doug started a new four year chapter of his life on the ice coast.   Our other close friend AJ Dayvie joined us and brought along Suisho, his tricked out Delica four wheel drive van.  Leaving Bozeman just after ten pm, we arrived at the East Rosebud Canyon trail head around 12:30 am. 
          

Suisho in all of her glory

          It was difficult for us to decide on a start time because we were uncertain about what to expect.  We were not seeing a consistent melt freeze cycle, and it had recently been too warm to still expect cold snow.  We decided on 6 am hoping that noon wouldn't be too late if wet slides were going to be an issue.  Although Cham is a West facing line, there is a healthy amount of South Facing water ice that hangs above the ski route and has the potential to tumble into the couloir given enough solar gain. 
             After two hours of dry trail, wobbly talus walking, and precarious deadfall navigation, we made it to the entrance of the couloir.   Predominately still traveling on talus at this point, we transitioned to ski boots before the real climbing started, and stashed our approach shoes and unused skins. Although we knew where we needed to be to start booting up the couloir, we had to decide which route we wanted to take to bypass some open waterfalls and steep rock steps.  We meandered our way through the rocky maze and got to continuous snow in about 40 minutes.  

Doug making rock climbing in ski boots look like it's fun

          Once we reached the continuous ribbon of couloir, all we had left was the endless calf burn that seemed to wind on and on.  The Chamonix packs close to 3,500' of vert, which is a lot if you aren't used to climbing and skiing things that big. Near the bottom of the couloir proper, we witnessed evidence of recent wet slides.  Traveling through to boot top wet snow was making us a bit nervous about stability, but we continued hoping that the combination of aspect, elevation, and a thin layer of clouds would play to our advantage. The higher we climbed, the firmer the condictions got.  We even found pockets of cold chalk and powder snow.   

AJ checking out some evidence of wet slides

          Having passed the bottom ice cruxes, we decided to stash our crampons near the bottom hoping we could climb faster without their weight in our packs.  Of course in the end, we regretted our decision because the very top of the couloir was sporting an ice bulge that guarded to entrance to the East rosebud plateau. we could have easily climbed past it with our ice axes, but descending it would have been a different story. After some lunch, waiting for the sun to heat up the snow, and discussion about how to descend past a rock crux at the top, we ended up skiing around 1pm.  Although it was certainitly not hero skiing, we found fun turns all the way down the couloir.    

AJ Dayvie skis the meat of the Chamonix couloir.

Author Ty Guarino skis through the rocky top section of the Cham.

          Because our approach route was so heinous, we took a different route out of the couloir. Our new route turned out to be questionably better and involved down climbing very slushy water ice and the most savage of all combat skiing.  Having never climbed ice before, AJ popped his cherry by doing it ropeless, with only one tool, in telemark boots, and going down instead of up.  Doug and I thought it was an appropriate introduction to such a silly sport...

          Getting back to the trailhead and sitting in the parking lot was a very welcomed load off the feet.  This was my second descent of the route, the first of which in the spring time.  I would say after this experience, with the gnarly approach and low snow levels, I will definitely take my time before trying it again.  Regardless, It was a great outing with incredible company.  Thanks Doug and AJ for rallying late night to make this trip one to remember!

            There are no words to say, similes to use, or comparisons to make.  Without venturing further and without overcomplicating my emotional attachment, I would use the word perfection to describe the Grand Teton.  Her striking curves, her dark humor, and her ever-changing bi-polar hospitality has inspired me more than anything else.  I court her, I fear her, and I have to say that I have truly learned from her.  I love her. 
            Admittedly, I often feel jaded or even bitter when I hear people talk about the ‘magic’ of the mountains. I cringe and shudder as the same cliché phrases are passed around in endless circles of banter amongst groups of skiers and mountaineers. I squirm and wriggle, shift my eyes, and turn my body as if to protect myself from an unwelcomed assault. I am not sure what it is that makes me feel uncomfortable, but in the end, I am and forever will be as guilty as everyone else. 
            What follows is a love story, 6-9 million years in the making.  So if you are like me, and dry heave every time you hear someone spraying about how important ‘Mountains’ are in their life, hang up now and forever dis-own me as your friend. My Grand addiction is sickly, obsessive, and all encompassing. 
            In the Fall of 2008, my freshman year at Montana State University, I purchased Thomas Turiano’s masterpiece coffee table book: the Peaks of Greater Yellowstone.  Although my mind was blown with each beautiful black and white photo depicting the mountains of the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem, I couldn’t help but gawk at the Grand.  Each aspect, each rock feature, each discontinuous ribbon of snow instantly drew me closer. I couldn’t help but wonder “how-the-fuck is that chunk of rock skiable?”
            Of course I was attending MSU because of it’s close proximity to Bridger Bowl, and like every other MSU freshman, I wanted to test my skills as a skier.  At the time, I would say, I wrote the Grand off as a peak well beyond my feasible level of attainment.  In the end, I didn’t believe that I had the strength or know-how to plan a trip to such an exotic mountain range and not kill myself. 
            But as time progressed, it seemed that that Grand was a mountain that was continuously re-entering my life.  In a twisted and wild chain of events involving a girl, a broken heart, and the need for emotional redemption, I was able to actually experience the Tetons in May of 2010.  After a week of bad weather and mediocre skiing, my partner and I were able to ski the Middle Teton’s SW couloir in rare all-time conditions.  Standing on the summit of the Middle, was at the time, the most profound experience in my life.  Skiing off the summit was pure ecstasy. From then on out, I was hooked, infatuated, and helplessly addicted to chasing ski descents in the Tetons. 
 

            Somewhere along the line, I was introduced to a young splitboarder who shared a similar psych for the Tetons as I, and was probably 10x savvier.  I was fortunate enough to study and experience the ‘magic’ of the Tetons under his supervision. I was even lucky enough to be on one of his first and notoriously wild ski expeditions to Alaska. 
            Aaron showed me how to be a ski mountaineer in the Tetons, and further nurtured my psych for experiencing the far-fetched and extraordinary. Aaron not only knew the complete history of ski descents in the Tetons,  but additionally had an incredible bead on snow and avalanche conditions. It became difficult not to mindlessly follow Aaron into any terrain he brought me to.  Eventually, after many, many trips into Garnet Canyon, I realized I had been staring too long at the Ford Couloir. I decided it was time to paint my own hop turns down the SE face of the Grand, without my Jedi master at my side.  
 

            Because of inexperience, because of the wonky snow conditions, because of  uncertainty, because of Jeremy Jones’ film helicopter rotor-washing the shit out of us, my partners and I bailed on our attempt of the Grand at the bottom of the Ford Couloir.  We could have blamed it on a lot of things, but I like the think it was because Jeremy’s movie making campaign for ‘Higher’ was able to buy out the ethics of GTNP's no helicopter policy, which therefore afforded his film crew the right to fly too close to us, which therefore almost sent us tumbling down the Becky route.  But in all reality, we were not experienced enough to know what to do, so we turned around :)
            The following spring, on the verge of another big expedition to Alaska, I took another stab at “courting the lady.” Our tactics changed and we felt supremely optimistic about our chances for success.  Waking up from a state of sleepless anxiety, my partner and I made our way up the teepee glacier with fresh legs and a bootpack already in place.  Our progress was confident, our climbing felt strong, and our heads were clear.  Near the top of the Chevy couloir, weather moved in, and the spindrift quickly became unbearable. 
            With the same partner as my first attempt, at the same place on the mountain, we tucked our tails between our legs and rappelled our way out of the storm.  After feeling so confident in our chances of success, I drove back to Bozeman feeling like I had almost drowned in a class V rapid.  I realized how bad I had wanted the Grand on my resume, and I realized that to move on with my life, I needed to ski that frightful son of a bitch.       
 

            I shortly thereafter left for Alaska and spent the next four weeks in the St Elias range thinking about the Grand.  I laid in my tent at night in the middle of a ski mountaineer’s virgin paradise, visualizing the silly and stubborn mountain in Northwest Wyoming.  Thousands and thousands of miles away, she still had me within her grasp and refused to let go.
            When I returned to Bozeman in early May of 2014, I only had one thing on my mind.  I contacted all of my ski partners, tried to recruit everyone I knew to come try the Ford/Stettner with me again.  But everyone had plans or was uninterested in belaying me up WI3 in my duckbill telemark boots. But really, before I even tried to get anyone to come back to the Tetons with me, I knew that I was going to probably end up driving south partnerless.
            Before I realized what was really happening, I found myself sitting cross-legged on the tailgate of my Honda element watching the last of the evening light disappear behind the cathedral peaks of the Tetons. I watched as the clouds danced in and out of the summits, and how the shadows played with their dark and beautiful features.  What I remembered most vividly about my first trip to the Tetons was this exact activity; as my ski partner napped in dirt of the shadow mountain campground, I quietly sat next to him with the same straight-back posture and subtle smirk across my face, contemplating my motivations.
            Although I knew that I was going to try to ski the Grand one more time regardless of the presence of a partner, actually attempting it solo truly scared me.  Although I felt like I had the route dialed, I knew the ins and outs of each pitch, and was able to visualize every piece of sun-faded webbing precariously fixed above the common rappel stations, I was still curious if I could actually commit to something that serious. regardless, I felt that I was ready enough, and if I wasn’t, I would simply turn around. 
            And so it came to be, that I once again I shook the sleepless state of anxiety from my head and drove to the Taggart lake trailhead at 11:45pm.  Although I felt confident in my skills as a ski mountaineer, what I wasn’t feeling confident about was the big orange sign as the trailhead asking me if I was “bear aware”.  I guess I had overlooked the prospect of grizzlies and traveled solo to the Tetons sans bearspray. 
            Being incredibly scared of bears, and wild animals in general, I spent the first  three hours of my climb up to Garnet canyon yelling and hollering my vocal chords hoarse.  I was dead set on letting my presence be known to every living thing within a ten-mile radius.  When I emerged in the meadows below the Middle Teton, I felt that I had probably made myself more tired from yelling than I did from skinning. Regardless, I continued up towards the Teepee glacier and transitioned to crampons. 
            I stashed some gear at the Teepee col, traversed past the death slope, and dropped into the dark hallway of the Stettner couloir.  My personal crux was not the skiing, but the climbing.  Being the half-assed alpinist that I am, climbing Water Ice grade 3, ropeless, in telemark boots, with skis on my back, was by for the most intimidating proposition of my third Grand attempt.  In previous outings, I was able to climb the Chevy couloir on belay with the help of my partners. But now, the weight of my endeavor was manifesting itself in poor ice climbing technique and it was causing me to grip my ice tools too tightly. 
            At the crux move, it didn’t take me very long to panic and place an awkwardly high ice screw to calm my anxious head space. I immeadiatly girth-hitched my belay loop with a nylon runner and clipped the other end to the screw's metal hanger.  I proceeded through the difficult ice with a new sense of confidence, and then back-cleaned my protection from a stance on top of the crux.  Regardless of my poor technique, I continued through the Chevy couloir, and stashed my ropes at the bottom of the Ford Couloir.
            In a whirlwind of breathless singing, I high-daggered my way to the summit of the Grand Teton.  I staggered and wobbled, stumbled and fumbled my way to the USGS summit marker, and clumsily sat down on top of the summit.  My head was spinning and my heart was pounding.  This is real, I thought to myself.  “This is real.”
 

Although I somewhat hate to admit it, I refer to my successful ski of the Grand as a borderline ‘spiritual experience.’  In all reality, skiing the Grand Teton solo is pretty small potatoes in the realm of extreme ski mountaineering. But to me, the ‘magic’ of the mountains was and is, extraordinarily real.  In some way, I think I knew that I was eventually going to have to try it without a partner.  For someone like me, who is largely conservative in my forays as a ski mountaineer, I reflect on this experience with wonder.  I have learned that skiing solo is an important piece of who I am, and I believe that it is and integral part of me realizing my true potential. 
            This past winter, I put in another unsuccessful attempt on the Grand leaving my record 1 for 4.  I think though, no matter how many times I fail or succeed on that mountain, I will always feel the need to visit the dark and twisted lady of the Tetons. 
 

After a long history of bad birthdays, my 25th was the game changer.  On Monday Feb 23, Joel Forrest and I set out in search of a new powder skiing zone.  Out of seemingly nowhere, we stumbled upon a new-to-us area... 

Tigger-pup displaying the potential of our beautiful bluebird day

Joel Forrest gettin' the goodies!

Trying my absolute best to hold onto my youth.

Three hours later we are listening to some bluegrass, drinking some beer, and reminiscing about the good ol' days! Thanks Joel for making my 25th the best so far!